“I like my body when it is with your body.” This line, taken from E. E. Cummings’ poem of the same name, inspired Maria Grazia Chiuri to create a collection dedicated to the physical form. Not only the body as it exists within itself, but how it exists, moves and interacts with others. However, despite sheer fabrics and dresses cut down to there, the message isn’t inherently sensual. Rather, it is one of freedom.
Though this is only her second Fendi collection, Spring/Summer 2027 feels distinctly Chiuri. Feminism has long been a part of her design philosophy, from her “We Should All Be Feminists” T-shirts at Dior to repeatedly finding inspiration in female icons. She looks to Italy – a birthplace she shares with the House – for her latest muse: Raffaella Carrà. The Italian actress and musician was a symbol of free-spirited sensuality in the 1970s, challenging conventions around femininity and famously becoming the first woman to show her midriff on Italian television. Her influence lends the collection its ‘70s spirit and rebellious energy.
Lace-trimmed, feather-lined and in skin-skimming silks, undergarments formed the foundation of the Spring/Summer 2027 collection, evolving from a secret to the sartorial star of the show. Bralettes replace tops, jumpsuits are crafted from sheer lace, shirts are worn unbuttoned and plunging necklines allow glimpses of skin, playing with the boundary between revealing and concealing.
The balancing act extends to the collection’s materials and the show’s styling: lightweight lace was paired with body-enveloping outerwear, while pieces typically reserved for the boudoir met animal prints that encouraged a second glance. This juxtaposition also appeared in Chiuri’s representation of masculine and feminine. The collection finds a meeting point between the two, where sensuality can be powerful and masculinity can be as fluid as the collection’s billowing blouses.
Whether through fluid gender expression or liberating silhouettes, Fendi Spring/Summer 2027 embraces the freedom to dress – and to be seen – without constraint and on your own terms.
Rewatch the show here
