Saint Laurent’s Winter 2025 collection under Anthony Vaccarello is a striking exploration of refined minimalism, elevated by bold colour blocks and unexpected bursts of juicy greens and purples. The collection builds upon the House’s legacy of simplicity, where clean, precise silhouettes are imbued with energy through a rich palette and textured innovation.
Vaccarello’s mastery lies in the balance - his focus on pure, sculptural forms is counterbalanced by rich hues that breathe life into each piece. Saturated green and purple tones punctuate the collection, adding a vibrant intensity that contrasts beautifully with the muted neutrals. These eye-catching colour blocks transform the minimalist garments into dynamic, modern statements, creating visual impact with effortless ease. The infusion of these juicy hues feels fresh and rebellious, allowing each piece to pulse with life without ever disrupting the underlying elegance.
Leopard print, a hallmark of Saint Laurent’s legacy, makes an unexpected return, but reimagined with a contemporary edge. The timeless motif is rendered with controlled wildness, grounding the collection with a sense of animalistic sensuality while still maintaining the sharp refinement that defines Vaccarello's vision. It’s a playful juxtaposition - a hint of rebellion amidst the precision of the design.
The collection, defined by its sharp contrasts - stone-washed skirts paired with leather blousons - feels both grounded and ethereal, with the interplay between structure and fluidity creating a captivating narrative. Fabrics are manipulated to create a unique tactile experience - stretch fabrics paired with delicate guipure lace, couture silks distressed and submerged in silicone - resulting in an avant-garde texture that contrasts seamlessly with the classic shapes. These textiles seem to transcend time and trend, offering a vision of fashion that feels both futuristic and timeless.
Accentuating the minimalist aesthetic, the accessories are deliberately restrained yet undeniably luxurious. Pointed shoes, sleek and sharp, are adorned with satin square roses - a small but potent touch of opulence. Jewellery, crafted from rock crystal, references Yves Saint Laurent's personal affinity for the stone, bringing a sense of mystique and spiritual depth to the collection.
The runway setting mirrored the collection’s ethereal quality, with the grand onyx oval stage serving as a reflective backdrop to the garments. The glowing walls, with their rich, intricate patterns, suggested both impenetrability and infinite depth, embodying the human complexity that the collection evokes. The design - mysterious, enigmatic - was a fitting complement to the clothes’ quiet power.
Then came Bella Hadid, whose presence on the runway felt like a living, breathing manifestation of the collection’s essence. With every step, Hadid breathed life into the garments, her stride both elegant and assertive. She became the perfect embodiment of Saint Laurent’s Winter 2025 woman - confident, fearless and endlessly refined.
