If you were to define the Chloé woman, chances are the word 'bohemian' would come to mind. Picture her wardrobe and it would likely be brimming with cascading dresses, airy fabrics and separates for ensembles that seem thrown-together yet harmonious all at once.
"Chloé embodies a unique balance of soft strength, blending natural femininity, sensuality and lightness with independence and freedom. This soft strength is really what I have always been drawn to," writes Chloé's creative director Chemena Kamali in the show notes for the Paris Fashion Week presentation. The laid-back, caution-to-the-wind attitude of the Chloé woman is at the heart of the autumn/winter 2025 collection, though it is offset with an infusion of edge. Enveloping outerwear, lashings of velvet, lace-trimmed satin slips and plunging ruffled necklines make this collection more dinner party-ready than Chloé's usual easy-breezy approach; a message of independence remains apparent, but feels moreso rooted in sensuality than free-spirited femininity. "The Chloé woman is not always the same," explained Chemena. "Her story has many different layers, dimensions and moods. She embodies complexity and is not defined by a single identity." There were, of course, hallmarks of the House to reign it in - the collection boasts sheer fabrics in abundance across maxi skirts, dresses and voluminous trousers, all in Chloé's signature hues.
And what's a bohemian dream without a low-slung belt? For autumn/winter 2025, the cursive Chloé belt is kicked to the curb in favour of an extra-wide alternative with buckles that are the epitome of oversized, worn across the hips to infuse just the right amount of noughties nostalgia without becoming stuck in the past. This is, after all, a collection dubbed 'Evolution.'
In the spirit of evolution, Chemena paid homage to those that came before in a rather unexpected way. Walking the runway in a pastel purple jacket and sheer trousers was Maya Wigram. Aside from being a rapidly rising star, Wigram is the daughter of Phoebe Philo, who served as Chloé's creative director for five years from 2001. Whether intentional or serendipitous, the full-circle moment shows that Chloé is well and truly embracing its next chapter.
