The ribbon has been an emblem of Chanel for over a century. It weaves through countless collections, fashioned into bows and fastened to dresses. For Chanel’s autumn/winter 2025 show at the Grand Palais during Paris Fashion Week, a gigantic black ribbon served as the backdrop for the presentation. The ribbon wasn’t the only House signature revisited by the in-house team for the occasion. The pearl, the bow and the flower appeared throughout the collection; collars and cuffs were punctuated by bows, a cross-body bag replicated an oversized pearl necklace; and statement florals framed necklines.
As can be expected from Chanel, tweed remained central to the collection. However, it was given a punk-adjacent update and worn layered under sheer tulle on some occasions. In others, tulle skirts cascaded beneath suiting to offset the strictness of the tailoring.
The whimsy of the collection came via accessories. As always, the minaudières had the front row ooh-ing and aah-ing, and no doubt mentally adding to cart. An ultra-tiny quilted bag is big enough to squeeze your airpods in, while a spherical iteration could potentially hold one’s contact lens. On the other side of the spectrum were the extra-large bags: oversized clutches and totes, the latter scrunched in the middle to replicate a bow’s silhouette. Pearls and bows appeared once more across footwear, the former acting as heels for Chanel's signature Mary Janes.
The collection of codes could potentially be something of a farewell to Chanel as we know it, paving the way for Mattheiu Blazy's debut in October.