The sun-drenched halls of the Carreau du Temple set the stage for Zimmermann’s Autumn/Winter 2026 collection, and far from projecting the typical end-of-week exhaustion, the runway was energetic, thanks to a front row that mirrored the collection’s theme of rule-breaking femininity. With Oprah Winfrey, Jessica Chastain and Naomi Watts looking on, the runway was a walk down memory lane, specifically honouring the Australian pioneers of the 1920s who redefined the social boundaries of their era.
At the heart of the collection lies a personal narrative rooted in the designer’s own lineage. Nicky Zimmermann drew inspiration from her grandmother, a teenage lifesaver at Coogee Beach during a decade when such roles were forbidden for women. This spirit of defiance is extended to other historical icons, from the motoring duo Kathleen Howell and Jean Robertson, who famously drove across the rugged Australian continent, to the feminist author Miles Franklin. These were women who prioritised adventure and career over the domestic expectations of the time, and through this collection Zimmermann brings it to life in sartorial form.
The collection unfolded as a dialogue between utility and the beauty of fabric. The opening designs leaned heavily into a sense of uniform, featuring belted jumpsuits in structured cotton and leather that evoked a ready-for-anything attitude. This was then balanced by a take on whites, where oversized cable-knit sweaters were paired with striped culottes to create a look that was more contemporary.
As the show progressed, the focus shifted toward a more lingerie-inspired aesthetic that remained grounded in the theme of movement in true Zimmermann style. Flowing wrap dresses were layered over wide-leg denim, while leather jackets were styled with ruffled silk skirts, proving that the Zimmermann woman contains multitudes. The House’s signature romanticism remained in its ruffles and layers, which made one want to lounge by the beach all day long.
The attention to detail extended to accessories that showcased the 1920s glamour. Embroidered velvet mules and patchwork python versions of the Cloud 91 bag provided a weight to the more fluid garments. Jewellery featuring bird motifs served as a final nod to the theme of independence and the literal “taking flight” of early female aviators and explorers. The collection offered a wardrobe built for a woman constantly in motion, one who, much like her ancestors, made her own choices.
Rewatch the show here
