Since 2026’s spring launches began to roll in, high jewellery’s been dreaming of summer. At least, that’s how it seems, as collection after colourful collection has leaned toward tones of azure blue and sea green. This island fantasy came to a head with the launch of Chopard’s annual Red Carpet Collection, unveiled — as always — at the seaside venue of the Cannes Film Festival, and this time themed around ‘Miracles’. Its standout pieces? A cascading tonal blue necklace, featuring sapphires, aquamarines and diamonds, cradled an 88-carat royal blue sapphire and brought to mind a foaming tide. And then as if to complete the picture, a tropical fish in those same blues twinkled with the drip of pear-shaped diamonds dangling from its frond-like fins.
Pomellato’s Stile Libero high jewellery also took the opportunity to recall the hues of a summer getaway, pairing the sandy warmth of rose gold with fresh, cool stones at its Parisian debut at the end of June. In particular, the semi-rigid Drops of Paraíba choker, set with 21 pear-shaped Paraíba tourmalines, showed off the Maison’s serti libre technique to fluid, dazzing effect. With each stone unique in size and shade, and set in an irregular composition, the 20.15 carats of tourmalines were set off beautifully by snow-set diamonds and accompanying drop earrings to complete a look that’s enough to make your mouth water.
This diamond collar from Pomellato features 21 pear-shaped Paraíba tourmalines arranged in an irregular raindrop composition.
Other Maisons to make the most of cascading lines were Bvlgari with its Eclettica high jewellery collection and Dior’s Belle Dior, as well as Chanel’s mysterious Signes & Symboles. Each House put a distinctive spin on ocean blues, with Bvlgari creating the complex multi-wear Seres scarf-style chain piece and Dior flexing its haute joaillerie muscles with a two-strand pendant coming to a dramatic, clou-form sapphire central climax, while Chanel turned to the ferocity of its beloved lion to guard a significant sapphire in the Imprime necklace.
And while the lion may be the king of the jungle, at Cartier’s Le Choeur des Pierres launch the panther was steadfast in her prowl. For the Panthère Kentia necklace, with a 50.13-carat cabochon-cut Ceylon sapphire at its watery heart, undulating waves of diamonds tipped with aqueous sapphires are quelled by the presence of Cartier’s regal, feline queen.
And it wasn’t just the European Maisons making idyllic waves — across the Middle East, designers looked to tones ranging from inky depths to cyan shallows in their high jewellery. Farah Khan Atelier and La Marquise made the most of vivid aquamarine and Paraíba tourmaline in ornate and feminine constructions, while Nigaam and Samra took those hues in a regionally-inspired geometric direction. But it’s Karina Choudhrie’s Under The Sea high jewellery collection that really speaks to our seafaring hearts — especially the tumbling and foaming Midnight Sea Drop earrings in deep, luxuriant sapphire beads.
And ever the source of whimsy and wonder, Van Cleef & Arpels managed to meld a passion for the Middle East with some nautical inspiration at the launch of the Fascinating Egypt collection — and although overall it tended more to the Nile than the sea, it still showed more than a little ocean inspiration too, especially in its undulating, wave-like forms.
Paradise is never far away from Tiffany & Co.’s creations, and in this summer’s Blue Book Collection — entitled Hidden Garden — a vision of lush tropics was closer than ever. The Daisy parure in particular picked out the yellows, aquas and greens of a shoreline idyll with its emerald-cut blue zircons, emerald cabochons and diamond-accented yellow gold petals. And we can’t forget the Maison’s constant companion, the Bird on a Rock — this time rendered in hot tropical tones as both brooch and high jewellery watch, with exotic toucans, parrots and birds of paradise joining the menagerie.
Jean Schlumberger’s most iconic creation, the Bird on a Rock finds new, tropical manifestations this year.
If the direction of summer’s high jewellery is anything to go by, we’re experiencing a collective longing for languid views and beachside hues — so what’s to be done about it? Nothing for it but to take the plunge, and dive right in.
Originally published in the July/August 2026 issue of MOJEH Magazine. Subscribe here
