Daniel Roseberry balances contradictions for Schiaparelli autumn/winter 2026. He explores the balance between a collection as something that should sell and something that provides escapism. Should a collection be rooted in House codes as we know them, untouched? Or should they be explored and opened to reinterpretation? Can all this occur, perfectly in harmony, while honouring the woman that started it all? As it happens, the answer is yes.
At his Paris Fashion Week show, Daniel Roseberry alluded to what was to come by forgoing his usual presentation style in favour of a long, dark runway lit by spotlights – his previous shows felt more intimate with models meandering through the crowds. The collection plays with contradiction through pieces that marry opposing materials and warrant a second look. For instance, knitwear teamed with illusion tulle that offers the perception of lightness; laminated silk-blend fabric that appears structured despite its softness; printed wool that evokes leather; and, what is guaranteed to be the most-talked-about accessory of Paris Fashion Week, a shoe boasting a (rather realistic) cat head fashioned from resin and felt in homage to Elsa Schiaparelli’s adoration of fur.
Elsa Schiaparelli was, as always, felt throughout this collection, whether through reimaginings of the House’s keyhole emblem or the use of her beloved fabrics. It reconfirms her legacy and the enduring dream of the brand she built – a legacy that will be on show in the Victoria & Albert Museum in London next month. The retrospective, Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art, honours the founder’s life, work and impact on the fashion world. The autumn/winter 2026 collection feels like Roseberry’s own contribution, offering a retrospective through his own creations while inviting us to be a part of Schiaparelli’s new world.
