It shouldn’t be a surprise when a woman is named creative director at a major fashion House. And yet, here we are, in a world where it still feels noteworthy. Sarah Burton’s AW26 Givenchy show makes you stop, look, and ask the question: if this is what women bring to the helm of luxury fashion, why is it so rare?
It’s food for thought – perhaps we should be questioning more often – but we won’t dwell on that. The collection deserves attention in its own right. Burton’s AW26 embraces balance, movement and expression, each look designed to make women feel confident and elegant.
From the very first look, it was evident that tailoring lay at the core of the collection. Pinstripe suits and double‑breasted blazers recurred with purposeful frequency, each cut to balance strength with suppleness – structured shoulders and defined waists softened by fluid trousers or layered proportions. Rather than feel rigid, these ensembles suggested movement and adaptability, shaped for women who want to go to work but then perhaps a night on the town after.
Texture and surface treatment played an equally compelling part. Rich velvet, metallic threadwork and fringed fabrics introduced depth and visual satisfaction, ensuring pieces felt tactile as well as sharp. Scarves were draped and knotted with a sense of motion which almost felt frozen, while some of the most striking looks featured headwraps made from simple T‑shirts twisted into sculptural forms. Strategically placed animal prints – on coats, dresses and even tailoring – asserted energy and attitude without overwhelming the overall refinement of the collection.
Burton also wove in references to the House’s heritage and her own creative lineage. Archival jacquards and treasured textiles were reimagined alongside contemporary tailoring, grounding the collection in tradition while signalling a clear, current voice.
Small details continued this blend of refinement and personality. Asymmetric slip dresses, embellished knit tops and contrasting elements like the quirky over-sized gloves offered moments of surprise that avoided feeling gratuitous. Every look – whether sharply tailored or richly textured – contributed to a unified narrative of courage, versatility and multifaceted femininity.
