Celebrating his 10th anniversary at Saint Laurent, creative director Anthony Vaccarello presented a collection decked in gold with a cinematic grandeur fit for a farewell. Considering the prevalent rumours of his leaving, it wouldn’t come as a surprise; there was a palpable feeling of a closing chapter as models walked the runway with the designer. The Eiffel Tower shone in the background, and an even more luminous display of golden chandeliers floated above the runway as Vaccarello did not shy away from going all out.
Unlike previous collections where the designer repeated silhouettes in different colours, for Spring/Summer 2027 it was colour itself that dominated across several designs. Trench coats, skirts, safari jackets, suits and cocktail dresses all got the Midas Touch and no fabric was spared – lamé, organza, chiffon, brocade, guipure lace, metallic cotton, latex and jacquard.
The decadent hue manifested in many forms, from 24K bright gold to rustier shades with red and black pigments adding depth and character. The gold slowly turned to black for the final looks, creating a stark contrast that gave the eyes a rest. However, the dominant colour still remained in accessories and embellishments, from earrings and shoes to buttons.
Sitting front row were long-time supporters Zoë Kravitz, Rami Malek, Kate Moss, Catherine Deneuve and Hailey Bieber, as well as fellow designers Donatella Versace and Pierpaolo Piccioli. Charlotte Gainsbourg even joined the runway to serenade the designer during the finale. Vaccarello then stepped down off the runway and handed his five-year-old son a set of keys, with many interpreting the moment as a “passing of the torch” that signalled the end of an era.
As the show notes recalled Monsieur Saint Laurent’s words, “It’s a magical colour; when reflecting a woman, it’s the colour of the sun.” Gold was truly the star of what felt decisively like Anthony Vaccarello’s last hurrah at Saint Laurent.
Rewatch the show here.
