There are certain ways through which Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent speaks to the woman: it is bold, it has an edge that goes hand-in-hand with sophistication, and a confidence that wears so well on anyone. Autumn/Winter 2026 marks the 60th anniversary of Le Smoking, Yves Saint Laurent’s then-controversial (now iconic) tuxedo suit. In 1966, women were banned from wearing trousers in Paris; Le Smoking was the first-ever tuxedo suit for women and was created as an emblem of empowerment and femininity.
Vaccarello opened the show with reinterpretations of Le Smoking boasting broad shoulders, accentuated waists and elongated cuts. Though beginning on a powerful note, the collection evolved into what appeared to be lace dresses upon first glance, until closer inspection revealed latex-hardened lace that afforded the pieces a texture and shine. They were teamed with oversized fur coats that somehow remained chic despite having potential to swallow one whole. From the barely-there slip dresses to the predominantly brown palette (save for pops of blue and deep red) that is easily identifiable as Saint Laurent, the runway was an ode to all things the House holds dear.
While the fashion was undoubtedly the star of the show, the accessories also demanded attention. They were chunky and statement-making, and made appearances in the form of earrings, necklaces and bracelets. Through the autumn/winter 2026 runways, Anthony Vaccarello showcased how the soft and seductive can find the strong and structured without compromising on attitude or femininity.
Rewatch the show here
