Egyptian-born designer and entrepreneur Salma Rachid founded her Milan-based label, Retori, with a vision that goes beyond simply creating a fashion brand. Having lived across Egypt, Italy, Los Angeles, Qatar, Dubai and beyond, she has developed a distinctly global perspective that continues to inform her creative process and the brand’s identity. Rachid wanted to open a wider conversation that blends the worlds of art and design and takes global cultures and perspectives into consideration. Rather than producing traditional seasonal collections, the brand unfolds through a series of chapters, each developed in collaboration with a contemporary artist whose work becomes the foundation for the collection.
Previous chapters have drawn inspiration from artists including Dutch painter Miko Veldkamp and artistic duo Anna and Maria Ritsch, while most recently, for the brand’s fourth chapter, she worked with Brazilian artist Gustavo Nazareno, known for his charcoal drawings and oil paintings that play with light and shadow. The process begins with a conversation and immersion into the artist’’s world, exploring their influences and creative language before translating those ideas into clothing.
For Chapter 04, Inner Cosmos, Nazareno’s symbolic works exploring spirituality, transformation and the unseen forces that shape human experience informed everything from the collection’s mood and palette to its sculptural silhouettes and richly textured fabrics. Rather than replicating his works literally, Rachid sought to interpret the artist’s way of seeing the world through her designs. This translates into pieces that feel soft yet structured. Rippled necklines on smooth jersey dresses or a slice of colour added break up a simple tailored piece, hinting at the layered identity of Nazareno’s work, while a colour palette of earthy tones and black reflects the artist’s approach to light and shadow.
The artistic conversation around the brand continues beyond the collections through Salotto Retori, the brand’s Milan flagship along Via della Spiga, conceived as a hybrid space where fashion, art and culture converge. Part boutique, part gallery and part cultural space, it provides a platform for exhibitions, artist collaborations and creative exchanges.
Today, Rachid divides her time between Milan and Dubai, while Retori continues to expand its presence across the region through retailers including Ounass and Harvey Nichols Dubai. Photographed at her Dubai home, surrounded by contemporary artworks, sculptural furniture and unique design pieces, it becomes clear that the brand’s visual language extends far beyond the wardrobe. It is woven into her own life.
MOJEH: What was the original vision behind Retori?
Salma Rachid: I’ve always been fascinated by the stories people carry, the places they come from and the experiences that shape them. I felt there was room for a brand that wasn’t built around trends or a single aesthetic, but around stories and conversations. A brand that could introduce people to extraordinary artists, inspire new perspectives and create pieces that become part of their lives.
Rather than traditional seasonal collections, Retori unfolds through chapters. Tell us about this approach.
Every chapter begins with an artist collaboration. We spend time exploring their memories, influences and way of seeing the world, which becomes the starting point for the collection. Thinking in chapters allows Retori to evolve organically. Each collection builds on the last.
How has your personal relationship with art shaped the way you design and view the world?
For me, art is a universal language that almost everyone can understand and feel. It speaks to emotion, opens your mind to new perspectives and defines beauty in infinite ways. That openness has influenced Retori from the beginning. Each artist’s unique language becomes the foundation of each chapter, and I think that gives every collection its own emotional identity and cultural depth.
Was it always your intention to blur the lines between fashion and art with Retori?
I’ve always been interested in the stories behind people and the way art reflects the culture and moment in which it is created. Fashion is another form of that expression. It tells us where we come from, what we value and how we choose to present ourselves to the world. Retori creates a space where those conversations can happen through beautifully crafted pieces.
Tell us more about Retori’s distinct and unique design language.
I start with how a piece should make someone feel before thinking about how it should look. The silhouettes are fluid, elegant and easy to live in. I love knitwear and tailoring; the balance between the two is very much the language of Retori, always interpreted from the perspective of the artist who inspired that chapter.
Salotto Retori has become an extension of the brand’s universe in Milan. Tell us about the vision behind the space and the role it plays in fostering dialogue and connection.
Salotto Retori was born from the idea that luxury should feel welcoming. I wanted to create a place where people could discover artists, attend events, join conversations or simply enjoy a quiet moment of reflection at any time of the day. It has become a living expression of Retori.
Chapter 04, Inner Cosmos, features the work of artist Gustavo Nazareno. What drew you to his artistic language, and how did this collaboration shape the collection?
What struck me first was the intensity of Gustavo’s work. His paintings carry incredible depth, speaking through shadow and light. There is a beautiful tension among spirituality, identity and mystery that keeps drawing you back. We explored the same emotional landscape through colour, texture and silhouette.
How have different cultures and experiences shaped your perspective on luxury, creativity and community?
Living in different countries has made me realise that cultures may express themselves differently, but people are ultimately searching for many of the same things: beauty, belonging, appreciation and connection. It has also taught me to be more curious and to allow room for creativity and dialogue. Every place has its own rituals, its own understanding of simplicity and its own way of finding beauty in the smallest details.
What do you hope people feel when they wear your creations?
I hope they feel special, connected and confident enough to embrace whatever life brings. I design pieces that are meant to be lived in, packed for important trips and collected over time rather than saved for a special occasion.
How do you manage to balance creativity with business?
The two should not compete with one another. Of course, there are difficult decisions, but I always come back to the same question: Does this strengthen the identity of the brand or dilute it? If the answer is clear, the business decision usually becomes much clearer. Building Retori is a long-term vision, and every decision should contribute to that.
Looking ahead, how do you see Retori changing and evolving?
I hope Retori continues to grow as a platform for discovering extraordinary artists from around the world and bringing their work to new audiences. I’m particularly interested in exploring conversations around identity, memory, craftsmanship, nature and the reflections that open us up to new beginnings. I want to continue to create beautifully crafted pieces that tell meaningful stories and become part of people’s lives.
Three words that define Retori.
Thoughtful. Artistic. Enduring.
What do you love most about Milan? Dubai?
For Milan, its all about the appreciation for craftsmanship, beauty and simplicity. And for Dubai, its optimism and the incredible ease with which the world comes together.
Who is an artist who has profoundly influenced you?
I don’t think I could choose just one. Every artist I’ve met has changed the way I look at the world in some way.
The book currently on your bedside table?
The Elegance of the Hedgehog.
A city that always inspires creativity?
Istanbul. It has spent centuries absorbing different cultures and somehow transforming them into one unique identity.
One object you never travel without?
A notebook. I have to write everything down: thoughts, plans, ideas… I can’t imagine travelling without one.
The most underrated form of art?
Flowers. Arranging flowers is my meditation.
If Retori were a work of art, what would it be?
I always imagine it as music. I often find myself wondering: if this chapter had a melody, what would it sound like?
A clothing piece you cannot live without?
A beautifully tailored blazer.
What does luxury mean to you today?
Luxury, for me, is simplicity. In a world that constantly asks for more, true luxury is having the freedom to slow down, create thoughtfully and surround yourself with objects and people that genuinely add meaning to your life.
Photography by Žiga Mihelčič
Originally published in the July/August 2026 issue of MOJEH Magazine. Subscribe here
