Pieter Mulier has officially closed a chapter. The Belgian designer showed his final collection for Alaia on 4 March during Paris Fashion Week; as of July 2026, he will join Versace as creative director. During his five-year tenure at Alaia, he has driven the House to success through consistently wearable collections, viral accessories – mesh ballet flats, the Le Teckel bag – and a loyal fanbase of celebrity clientele.
The fashion industry’s finest came out to show support for Mulier’s final show, including Chanel’s Matthieu Blazy and Prada’s Raf Simons, and it was a tribute to those that have contributed to Alaia’s success – portraits of each atelier member were shown on a gigantic screen and the creative director thanked his entire team in the show notes. “A collection is a result of their passion, time, taste, tears and love,” it read. “One never works alone.” The narrow runway, with guests sandwiched in and sitting barely a few feet across from each other, echoed this feeling of intimacy and family.
Alaia has always championed sensuality and the female form. Mulier’s collections are minimalist and body-loving, yet still showcase his savoir-faire with the occasional touch of eccentricity. The summer/autumn 2026 collection featured ‘90s-inspired bodycon dresses; peplums; ankle-skimming outerwear in leather with feather trims and ruffles; disco-ready minidresses; and sumptuous knits. It didn’t push the sartorial boat out. Rather it provided wearable, gently reinvigorated fashion staples that are pieces you’ll pull out of your wardrobe for seasons to come (likely alongside an anecdote about how it was from his final collection).
Pieter Mulier was greeted with an emotional standing ovation upon his final bow and a palpable excitement about what the future – his and Versace’s – will bring.
