The Middle East has long been an important source of inspiration at Louis Vuitton. From its exclusive Ramadan collections to its oud-based scents, the region’s aesthetic codes have consistently shaped the House’s creative direction for years. Now, master perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud has tapped into the next chapter of this enduring love affair with a sensual new fragrance launch inspired by the mythical golden hour of the region — that time just before night falls and the landscape is transformed into a smorgasbord of scent, spices and desert heat.
Presented as part of Louis Vuitton’s Journey to the Middle East collection, part of the broader Perfumes of the World series, Ambre Levant can be seen as something of a successor to Ombre Nomade, the Maison’s first oud fragrance launched back in 2018. “For a long time, oud was considered very particular — many people thought it was too powerful,” Cavallier-Belletrud tells MOJEH during an exclusive appearance in Dubai. “That’s no longer the case. In fact, 70 per cent of our clients for our first Middle Eastern-inspired fragrance, Ombre Nomade, aren’t from the region at all — they come from all around the world. It shows that ancient traditions can still be in the DNA of success.”
Marrying two emblematic Arabic signatures, amber and oud, and giving them a modern-day twist, Ambre Levant is both fresh and dense, defined by warm resins and moody woods. The former is one of the first notes that Cavallier-Belletrud discovered as a child in his father’s laboratory — “it has never stopped guiding me,” he says — and here it comes married with mandarin to add a hint of freshness, and combined with saffron, cinnamon and white pepper to evoke a spicy, delicately gourmand impression. “I love spices in general, but particularly saffron — it has something so bright and at the same time floral,” he adds. “In fact, one of the things I love most about working with Louis Vuitton is that price isn’t an issue, and so we can really use the best ingredients. This is the key to our success.”
The true star of the show, however, is an exceptional oud essence sourced from northeastern Bangladesh, in the tropical region of Sylhet, where oud develops within the Aquilaria trees that grow in the area’s dense forests. “We have the largest concentration of oud ever used at Louis Vuitton in this fragrance — it is over two per cent of the formula,” he explains. “It truly brings the whole fragrance together and is the perfect contrast to the fruitier notes.”
This isn’t a generic raw material bought on the open market, however. It comes from a supply chain that is entirely exclusive to Louis Vuitton, with the House having built a long-standing partnership with a local family who have preserved this ancestral savoir-faire for more than 200 years. What makes it even more remarkable is the time involved, with it taking at least 30 years for the resin to develop its full aromatic complexity. Unlike many producers who harvest earlier, this family allows the trees to mature to this stage, demonstrating a level of patience that is increasingly rare. “We are proud to work with all these different people, as the human touch is what is most important,” adds Cavallier-Belletrud. “I believe Louis Vuitton is the brand which carries the most human values in the world. The ingredients we choose reflect local and human cultures.”
Taken together, Ambre Levant feels like a natural evolution of everything he has been building towards. The craftsmanship, the concentration of oud and the patience behind the sourcing feeds into a fragrance that is bold yet controlled, sensual yet polished. And as Cavallier-Belletrud makes clear, there is still more to explore: “The tribute to the Middle East isn’t finished yet. The region is an endless excursion in terms of scent, in terms of raw materials and sophistication.” Shop now
Originally published in the March 2026 issue of MOJEH Magazine. Subscribe here
