Set along a runway bisecting the Jardin des Tuileries’ octagonal basin, Jonathan Anderson’s third outing for Dior saw models emerge through trees as a low-lying fog rose from below. The show opened with a nod to rising temperatures with sheers layered effortlessly, making a case for lighter fabrics when the next heatwave takes over.
Petals, by the fourth look, became a recurring motif. Dropping down to the waist on just one ear, statement earrings injected colour and flamboyance into an otherwise muted palette. The floral element also took over full silhouettes, with tops and skirts built entirely around the same structure. The effect lets the wearer become one with the bloom, delivering the considered levity we expect from Anderson.
Balancing the softer sheer layers were metallic trousers treated with a scale texture in shades of silver, gold and green. Not to forget the iconic Bar jacket that proved once again to be an indispensable pillar in the designer’s repertoire. There were structural pieces that either extended into fluid designs or were paired with flowier separates to ensure the sentiment was seen throughout the collection. For example, asymmetrical skirts swayed in a silhouette that was made to flow thanks to the unique draping.
Volume was kept breezy and wearable, seen in loose ruffles along hemlines and elongated fringes that lent easy movement. The softness translated naturally into the bags, with new petal- and fringe-laden styles celebrating an almost bohemian femininity. For the quieter pieces, House codes took over: CD charms and hardware accented the hands, while lucky four-leaf clovers sat subtly along the handles.
Brights were scarce, but that isn’t to say there weren’t any. Anderson presented dresses that added a pop of colour to the runway, while pastel hues were strewn, though minimally, across the 65 looks. By his third chapter, we see the designer trading restraint for a more whimsical entry into the Dior lexicon.
Rewatch the show here.
