Long-awaited debuts, tributes and the return of wearable couture: Paris Couture Week SS26 was anything but predictable. As the industry’s most storied Houses enter a new chapter, some more pronounced than others, MOJEH rounds up the highlights you need to know.
Jonathan Anderson Makes His Debut For Dior Haute Couture
Jonathan Anderson’s haute couture collection was one that took everyone by surprise as it brought to life an artistic vision that was as Dior as it was Anderson. The collection finds its starting point with a bouquet of cyclamens that former creative head John Galliano, who was also on the FROW at the show, gifted the designer during his visit to the studio. The designs leaned heavily towards florals, appearing as earrings, bags and embroidery alongside sculptural forms that came in unexpected fabric choices. Anderson successfully brought together Dior’s House codes and his own experimental aesthetic, signalling a new direction for the iconic French House.
Matthieu Blazy Presents His Debut Collection For Chanel Haute Couture
Matthieu Blazy’s approach to couture for Chanel was subtle and romantic, unravelling in a dreamy landscape that featured giant pink and red mushrooms in the Grand Palais. The collection saw sheer fabrics, draping and a departure from Chanel’s heavier tweed varieties, creating looks that felt like a natural transition from the fluid silhouettes of his Ready-to-Wear collections. Compared to the seriousness that couture often presents, Blazy’s collection felt like an easy-breezy fairytale.
Robert Wun Dreams In Vivid Colours
Robert Wun’s haute couture collection was imaginative storytelling done in vibrant colour — bright reds, blues and greens alongside the classic neutrals. His signature fantastical elements were present, with pieces that seemed to defy gravity and convention. However, the designs were also deeply personal, often drawing inspiration from cinema and personal memories. Wun kept drama close, whether it was through silhouette, colour or performance.
Gaurav Gupta’s Runway Is Rooted In Indian Spiritual Philosophy
From the illuminated model who opened the show to the temple jewellery that followed, Gaurav Gupta’s runway was one that captivated with ease. Centered on the Divine Androgyne, the collection explored a unified existence beyond the binary, brought to life through corded lattices and the symbolism of twin flames. By weaving in cultural touchstones, think sari-inspired draping, jasmine flowers and traditional ornaments, Gupta shone light on his Indian roots and the spiritual beliefs that are associated with it.
Haute Couture Label Ashi Studio Presents The Beginning
Exploring the liminal space between devotion and destruction, the Ashi Studio 2026 collection amplified a sense of longing and sensuality. This tension was articulated through dresses in crocodile requiring over 350 hours of handwork and corsets adorned with hand-painted details. From petals to painting, the Saudi Haute Couture House proves to be one of the most noteworthy from the region this season.
Looking Through The Window At Valentino
We doubt the guests arriving at the Valentino show anticipated spending the evening peering through peepholes. Yet, creative director Alessandro Michele angled the show on the act of voyeurism. As models drifted in and out of view, guests peeped in for a glimpse of the collection’s dramatic silhouettes. There were fur capes, opera gloves, feathered headgear and wearable pieces that could even be worn outside of a red carpet. Honouring founder Valentino Garavani who passed away last month, the evening opened with a clip from Matt Tyrnauer’s documentary, Valentino: The Last Emperor.
Silvina Armani Debuts At Armani Privé
Giorgio Armani Privé unfolds through the female gaze as Silvana Armani steps into the spotlight this season. Her debut collection, Jade, introduces a softer philosophy to the atelier, prioritising ease over extroversion. She trades rigidity for liquid fabrics and subtle embellishments creating a collection that exudes a quiet and calm femininity. Silvana honours the House’s foundational codes while infusing the runway with her own sense of creativity. With the appointment as creative director she becomes the only woman at the helm of a couture House.
