What do Kate Moss, the 90s and Tom Ford have in common? They all walked for Gucci this season – in some shape or form.
Kate Moss closed the Gucci Primavera AW26 runway in a backless, crystal‑embellished gown that sent genuine gasps through the audience. Her presence wasn’t just an iconic dose of nostalgia, it felt more like sending a message to what the new era of Gucci will entail, almost like a living link between the House’s past and its present. The 90s informed everything from the cuts to the colour palette and the mood of the collection, while Demna’s meticulous exploration of Gucci’s archive made clear his fascination with Tom Ford’s era: when sharp tailoring, effortless sensuality and clothes that instilled confidence became Gucci’s signature language.
Demna took Gucci’s history and heritage and made a clear choice: not to shy away from them, but to reanimate them with feeling. This was never going to be a conventional archival revival. Instead, it was a re-energising – a way of making the Italian Dolce Vita woman feel less like a vintage postcard and more like someone who could hit Studio 54, grab a matcha pre-workout, pick up the children from school, and turn heads in the office in a commanding power suit. Each look in this collection tells a different story, but together they form a narrative that connects.
There was still glamour, intrinsic to its Italian DNA. But it wasn’t just there for decoration. It was active, expressive, and – crucially – personal. Under Demna, Gucci became something you didn’t just look at. It became something you could imagine living in – which could be hazardous for anyone trying to behave like a responsible adult in 2026. For the first time at a Gucci runway, a selection of pieces from the show was available for immediate purchase. One minute you’re applauding the finale, the next you could be swiping your card for that perfectly cut jacket you were obsessing over just minutes before. There’s the panic: “Do I really need this?” The kind of retail anxiety that usually only hits on payday. And then, almost instantly, the thrill: the gleeful euphoria of knowing it’s yours on the spot, while still seated at a Gucci show. Fashion-week FOMO had never felt so deliciously real. That opportunity doesn’t come around every day, so surely it would feel rude not to indulge. We can only wonder if it will happen next season – but you can bet attendees will come better prepared in case it does.
Primavera could have drifted into sentimental softness, but instead it was daring – allowing old-school charm to collide with something sharply modern. Silhouettes ranged from body-hugging minis and muscle T-shirts to leggings that traced the figure, while cropped jackets and low-rise trousers injected a contemporary edge into the ’90s energy. Eveningwear alternated between draped sensuality and sharply structured tailoring, ensuring each garment felt intentional rather than costume – practical, purposeful, yet still undeniably fun.
Floral motifs were reawakened. There was no garden-party prettiness here: blooms appeared in saturated, bold colours, layered over structured garments that transformed heritage into statement pieces. Dresses paired floral patterns with fur jackets or were accessorised with attitude, giving each outfit a cool-girl-meets–mob-wife energy.
Colour operated as its own vocabulary. Deep neutrals and saturated jewel tones grounded the collection, while jolts of electric blue, red and metallic finishes cut through the dominance of black. Accessories stepped back into focus. Gucci bags – once in danger of fading into familiarity – reasserted their authority through refined lines and powerful proportion, regaining that sense of inevitability. Even the footwear demanded attention: pointed heels worn with logo-splashed tights left us completely undone.
The collection’s strength lay in its adaptability. Each look felt like it belonged to someone real, reflecting Demna’s ambition to make Gucci a feeling rather than a label.
Here’s to what comes next, and may we all enjoy it as thoroughly as we enjoyed Demna’s long‑awaited runway debut.
