The ambience was dark and smoky, with red lights creating a sense of urgency and upbeat music raising anticipation. It was apparent that Elie Saab’s SS26 runway was not going to be one that leaned into its usual romantic notes. The designer invents a woman that is ambitious and bold yet effortlessly feminine in his latest collection, a collection that lets florals take the backseat while python and lizard skin pull ahead.
“Whether she’s embarking on a day of power, play, pleasure — or all three — her style seamlessly adapts. Crisp tailoring meets flowing fabrics as she mixes and matches looks with intuitive élan,” the show notes read. We see skirts in serpentine fabrics creating ruffles to allow movement. Coats and belts bring in structure broken by the draping of blouses and dresses that let sensuality have its moment. Colour was scarce, other than yellows, lilacs, pinks and pops of red that peeped through in the form of chunky bangles. The predominant hue were shades of umber, saffron and stone, emphasising a sophistication and wearability that vivid colours might fail to convey in large proportions.
While the take was refreshing, the House keeps its feminine intact, giving buyers a reason to keep coming back for more. Ombre effects, draping that embraces the female silhouette and embellishments signature of the designer carried the weight of multiple designs that made their way down the runway. The show was a celebration of a union that caters itself to the modern woman: the woman in charge.
“Python winds through her wardrobe as a signature motif: strong on a structured trench, sensual on a chiffon dress, subtle in an earring’s delicate curve,” the designer explains in the show notes. Last seen on the runway in 2017 for Elie Saab’s SS18 collection, python prints are not new to the House, however, almost a decade later, the comeback is certainly welcome. Rewatch the show.
