All hail your inner rock chick. Imagine lace, corsetry, sweeping skirts and sharply tailored jackets with an ultra-modern rockstar edge. This was the energy that defined Elie Saab’s AW26 show, Midnight in Manhattan, at the Carrousel du Louvre. Saab, a master of romantic elegance, infused this collection with confidence, rebellion and effortless cool. Inspired by 1990s New York, the collection explored the duality of uptown sophistication and downtown attitude (and had us mentally purchasing khol, hair gel, and a leather jacket).
The runway itself embodied the collection’s effect. Mist curled along the black-carpeted floor, and models appeared like they had just stepped out of a modern noir film. The first look – a cherry-red leather bustier dress – set the mood: sleek, rebellious, and just a complete night owl it-girl. Croc-embossed pencil skirts, sculpted trousers and architectural jackets followed.
Saab balances structure and softness to define the collection’s identity. Rounded shoulders and cinched waists celebrate the female form, while tulip skirts and cigarette trousers allow movement, creating silhouettes that are both architectural and wearable. Romantic elements – lace corsetry, strapless tops, flowing organza – are offset by leathers and croc-embossed fabrics, introducing tension and modernity. Hand-painted florals and sheer sequined overlays reinforce Saab’s couture heritage without overwhelming the look. Accessories, from high-cut V stilettos and slim clutches to minimal jewellery, complete the outfits, enhancing the lines and proportions. Together, these elements show how Saab combines tailoring, romanticism and styling to create a wardrobe that proves elegance can be embodied for any aesthetic, whether you’re an introvert or an It Girl.
Beyond the runway, there’s another layer to Midnight in Manhattan: Elie Saab’s resilience. As a Lebanese designer, he feels the weight of what’s happening in his homeland and the wider region. Presenting a show this season, with geopolitical tensions affecting both attendance and emotions, could have been daunting, yet Saab pushed forward with confidence, creating a collection that celebrates the artistry coming from a region too often overshadowed by darkness. In doing so, he reminded everyone watching that despite the hardships and atrocities, the strength, creativity, and talent of this part of the world remain unmatched.
