At first glance, the collection suggests a more opaque shift for Chloé, with weighty embroidery, cotton and heavy tassels making a case for modesty. Look again, however, and the sheer allure Chemena Kamali is known for remains ever-present. For Spring/Summer 2027, titled Obsession, the creative director balances heritage codes with experimentation. Opening with tasseled separates and airy cotton dresses featuring deep-V necklines and lace, Kamali anchors the signature Chloé femininity through a nod to the archives.
Tailoring, inspired by a 1972 Noel’ suit, joins the lineup with scalloped lace trims and glimpses of lingerie underneath, exemplifying the House’s romantic sensibilities. This comes after minidresses embroidered withflowers and co-ords that capture whimsy. Toward the finale, Kamali’s fluid lace pieces and voluminous skirts leaned fully into the House’s signature ease, bohemian and free – the top draping around the body and the skirt allowing for movement.
Outerwear emerged as another central focus. Fishermen’s coats and capes anchored the weather-ready runway, designed from smoked transparent vinyl and paired with matching sou’wester hats. The accessories brought it all together with edge: oversized sunglasses and single statement earrings that felt cool and true to Chloé’s DNA.
While the rumour mill swirled with talk of Kamali exiting to join Saint Laurent, this collection showed what a natural match she remains for the House. As she signed off in the show notes: “The collection, I hope, is an expression of the Maison’s heart and soul. Forever Chloé.”
Rewatch the show here
