Olivier Rousteing’s departure from Balmain was unexpected, but new creative director Antonin Tron’s appointment made room for curiosity as for what’s next for the House. Known for his label Atlein and his experience working across several reputable fashion Houses, Tron’s debut at the Balmain was definitely one of the most anticipated of the season and he’s made it worth the wait.
The debut collection marks a pivot for the French House, making room for a moody, film noir sensibility. Tron establishes his authority by looking back to Balmain’s origins, starting with his opening look: a matte lambskin flight jacket that is a direct tribute to Danièle Décuré, France’s first female pilot who flew in a Pierre Balmain uniform in 1975. This reference served as a manifesto for the Balmain woman and the path Tron intends to take during his tenure at the House.
The collection also drew heavily from the draped silhouettes of the founder’s 1946 debut, yet Tron filtered these archival nods through a cinematic lens. Deep V-neck gowns and cinched waists provided a feminine counterpoint to bold-shouldered jackets and trousers. Even the more recognisable elements, like a leopard print from 1953, were given a twist, appearing on minidresses that transitioned into frayed textures at the hemline.
The collection was filled with sensuality, velvets, glistening leopard and draping that made your body the muse – there was so much about Tron’s designs that kept the sophistication of the House’s heritage as priority. Accessories were minimal, yet were given the consideration it required, including a nod to the new director’s affinity for surfing.
While the DNA of Balmain remains intact, the aesthetic seems to have moved from loud glamour toward a more controlled opulence. Tron staged the show in an industrial space that was softened by sheer curtains that exemplified this further.
Rewatch the show here
